Jewelry

Jewelry has always been both a status symbol and an expression of personal style. From the Bronze Age to the motley society of the 21st century, jewelry has helped tell stories about the wearer, the trends of the time, and the craftsmanship behind the creation of the jewelry itself.
At Harsted Antik we sell jewelry that, by virtue of its design, age and manufacture, tells these kinds of stories. Our selection particularly reflects the development of the 20th century with an emphasis on the Nordic idiom and the jewelry traditions that are widely considered to be uniquely Danish.

Jewelry design through time

In Denmark, we have used precious metals to design both jewelry and religious objects since ancient times, and thus gold and silver have long played a prominent role in the development of our artisanal traditions.
Renaissance jewelry often depicted mythological figures or allegories, and pearls and gemstones were among the preferred gemstones of this time. The 17th century saw more theatrical and pompous expressions with the Baroque, where the diamond was at the center of many goldsmiths' craftsmanship. The Neoclassicism of the 18th century was characterized by a light and elegant jewelry style, and later ideas born of emotion, function, and industrial development resulted in the divergent styles that characterize the jewelry tradition of the 19th century.

From Art Nouveau to the post-war period

Art Nouveau emerged around 1900 as a counter-reaction to industrialization. Industrial mass production had standardized many everyday objects, but with Art Nouveau, jewelry designers began to indulge in sensual expressions inspired by nature and the human body in particular. Asymmetry and curved lines were typically central elements, and the Art Nouveau movement was based on the idea that the distinction between high art and applied art should be abolished.
The 1920s saw the rise of the Art Deco movement, where geometric shapes, colored stones and distinct elegance began to dominate the craftsmanship of jewelry designers. In the 1930s, Danish functionalism centered on simplicity, usability and high quality materials. Later, some of the organically oriented designers of the post-war era became leading names in modern jewelry art – synonymous at home as well as abroad with the Danish design tradition's incomparable grasp of timeless, aesthetic expressions.

Danish jewelry design since the 1970s

Structure, pops of color and remarkable material combinations largely defined Danish jewelry design in the 1970s and 1980s. Many jewelry wearers began to use their necklaces, earrings and bracelets as identity markers in these years, sending strong signals to the outside world about, among other things, political affiliations. Since the 1990s, Danish jewelry design has developed in many different directions. However, in our time, antique jewelry has also been given new life by a young generation of jewelry wearers who value originality, quality and history. Jewelry classics are also regularly relaunched by iconic design houses such as Georg Jensen.

The Danish designers' design language

Many of the jewelry you find at Harsted Antik are designed and made by designers, goldsmiths and silversmiths who today enjoy wide recognition worldwide. Among the most iconic names in the range are Anton Michelsen, Georg Jensen, Hans Hansen and Niels Erik From.

Anton Michelsen

Anton Michelsen (1809-1877) is the founder of one of Denmark's oldest silversmithing companies. During his lifetime, he was known for several close collaborations with Danish visual artists, and his production includes signature brooches and graphic, stylized jewelry in enamel. When Anton Michelsen died in 1877, his work was taken over and continued by descendants, and the business soon became a royal court supplier. In 1985, Anton Michelsen was acquired and merged with the Georg Jensen Group.

Georg Jensen

Georg Jensen (1866-1935) was not just a designer. He was a visionary craftsman who consistently managed to unite sculptural aesthetic expressions with functionality. His background included training as both a sculptor and a silversmith, and as such he brought a unique sensuality to his jewelry craftsmanship.
Many of Georg Jensen's early jewelry pieces were influenced by the Art Nouveau movement. With organic lines, detailed decorations and a clear love for all the motifs found in nature, Georg Jensen created jewelry that still appears timeless and classic. After Georg Jensen's death, the company was continued, and over the decades Georg Jensen has developed into an internationally iconic design house. Although Georg Jensen is also known today for home design, the business is primarily considered one of the world's most influential in modern jewelry art.

Hans Hansen

Functionalist jewelry art is exemplified to a great extent by Hans Hansen (1884-1940). The designer's production is characterized by a simple and architectural idiom, which in the mid-20th century formed the basis for a new wave of Danish silversmiths – including Hansen's own son Karl Gustav Hansen. After his father's death, the son continued the business as chief designer, and in 1991 Hans Hansen merged with Georg Jensen.

Niels Erik From

Niels Erik From (1908-1982) was a highly versatile jewellery designer who, during his career, moved from romantic jewellery with floral motifs in the 1940s to rigorous and modernist expressions in the 1950s and 60s. Unlike Anton Michelsen and Hans Hansen, Niels Erik From's business was not continued when he died in 1982. However, interest in his jewellery remains high, and some of the most popular works are actively traded on both Danish and international antique and auction markets.

Jewelry as part of everyday life

Special jewelry doesn't just belong in the jewelry box. If you follow the advice below, you will soon discover that you can easily use a pair of beautiful ear clips from Georg Jensen or one of Niels Erik From's coveted finger rings to elevate everyday as well as festive outfits.

• Create contrasts by using vintage jewelry to complement an otherwise minimalist outfit

• Mix materials by wearing gold or silver jewelry with modern textiles like leather or denim

• Balance the proportions and keep the rest of your jewelry fairly simple, for example if you are wearing a large necklace.

• Avoid over-decorating your outfit and let the vintage jewelry be the center of your stylish appearance.

Stamps, assessment and maintenance

When we evaluate jewelry at Harsted Antik, we pay special attention to design, signature, material and condition. Stamps – in the form of master marks, city marks and mint marks – usually tell us a lot about the origin of a given piece of jewelry. We always inform about any signs of wear, patina or repairs in our product descriptions, and we usually recommend that you store your most valuable jewelry separately and in fabric bags; that you make sure that your jewelry does not get wet or is exposed to chemicals; and that you occasionally polish your silver either with a soft cloth or with a suitable polish.

Jewelry should both fit the size and feel comfortable to wear. We do not guarantee that our selection is suitable for you with a metal allergy, but of course we give you a 14-day right of withdrawal on all purchases. Do you have any questions about our jewelry range? Then contact us by phone, email or directly in the store on Store Kongensgade in Copenhagen.